All The Rage And The White Horse Tavern

“Rage, rage against the dying of the light.” DYLAN THOMAS.

And rage he did – with the White Horse Tavern being the last glimpse of illuminated scenery to this good poet’s life and resistance from the inevitable arms of death.

Before all the White Horses

It’s been 130 years since the White Horse Tavern first opened its doors but the history of this location goes back even further than that. Today, after decades of history and famous clientele, one of the oldest wood-framed buildings in Greenwich Village still draws the regulars as well as curious tourists – clearly they still sell alcohol.

By 1827, the West Village had become home to a large population of New Yorkers, especially blue-collar workers – clearly there were far fewer real estate brokers at the time. Row houses had been constructed throughout the area to accommodate the growing number of residents. One of those buildings was located on the corner of Hudson and 11th Streets; a wood-framed building with brick exterior standing three stories high.

The first floor hosted a bookstore from the time the building opened. Eventually a restaurant known as the James Dean Oyster House moved in during the mid-1800s. But by 1880, the restaurant had run its course and White Horse Tavern opened in its place.

Blue Collar Boozing

With its proximity to the piers on the west side of Manhattan, specifically Christopher Street Pier, which opened in 1828 and handled the arrival of cargo for the entire city, White Horse Tavern drew mostly longshoremen (men who worked on the piers), coming for a drink after their day ended. Most of the blue-collar clientele were also immigrants who had recently moved to the area.

The name of the bar was reflected in the décor. Images of white horses hang all around, including one very prominent horse on the wall behind the bar.

Big bay windows cover the exterior on the Hudson and 11th Street sides. That large bar, easily seen through the windows from the street, spans nearly the entire wall opposite the front door and was crafted with a thick piece of mahogany, which likely went for around $25 (approximately $500 in contemporary coin) when it was installed. A tin ceiling stretches out overhead and mirrors along the back wall and which has ever reflected the revelry within.

An additional room to the left of the bar was added later (after a blacksmith shop moved out) – bookstores, blacksmiths…they were just in the way of fine boozing opportunities. It still hosts wooden social tables for a bit more calm and as per overflow from the main room.

Not-So-Secret Speakeasy

Those big windows in the front allowed folks passing by to peek into the bar. In early years, this was a boon to business, drawing crowds attracted by the festivities. But when Prohibition started in 1920, it could have been a problem.

Rather than shutting down, like many bars in the neighborhood, White Horse stayed open. While they technically operated as a speakeasy, the fact that they served liquor was hardly a secret.

A man named Ernie Waldbaum had only recently purchased the bar when the 18th Amendment became the law of the land. He was able to keep the bar going; but the only thing he seems to be known for is owning the bar – he likely was keeping a low profile, as he was in fact running an illegal business.

Thanks to the fact that many of their regulars were immigrants who had gone to work as police officers – not to mention the fact that it had become a frequent haunt for then Mayor James J. Walker (aka Jimmy Walker), the bar was never raided during those 13 dry years. Seriously…it’s who you know.

Bohemian Boozing

By the 1950s, a group of “neo-Bohemians,” adopted a movement that involved an artistic lifestyle. White Horse Tavern welcomed all of them who waltzed on in.

Among these neo-Bohemians were artists, musicians and writers, specifically Dylan Thomas. A famed Welsh poet famous for his work Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night, Thomas often toured the U.S., doing readings. When he came to New York, he stayed at the Chelsea Hotel and spent long nights drinking at White Horse Tavern with the locals.

Lights Out

In October of 1953, he arrived in the city to direct a play he’d written. Thomas was a known alcoholic and had been suffering from blackouts but that didn’t stop his extended bouts of drinking. He visited White Horse even while he was canceling other engagements.

By early November, increased smog was aggravating his condition but he still dropped in at White Horse around 2am on November 4. He spent hours at the bar before declaring he’d had 18 straight whiskeys then stumbled home. (Bartenders at the tavern would later claim that he couldn’t have had more than half that.) Dylan died in nearby St. Vincent’s Hospital on November 9 from brain swelling brought on by alcoholism and made worse by pollution.

While his death is a few days removed from his last appearance at the bar, it’s still very much associated with the White Horse Tavern. The establishment has even hung a plaque over the table where Thomas spent hours writing and drinking.

More Writers Cometh

Other writers caught on and also made the White Horse Tavern their regular spot. Norman Mailer, an American novelist and playwright, as well as Anais Nin, an author recognized most for her diaries and erotic writing, flocked to White Horse, as did Jack Kerouac.

The New White Horse Tavern

Ed Brennan, a man who grew up in the neighborhood, purchased the tavern from then owner James Hamilton (who had bought the tavern from Waldbaum in 1957) for $10,000 in 1967 (nearly $70,000 today). Brennan had spent time drinking at the tavern and even worked there for a short time before owning it.

He renovated the bar to bring back its charm but kept much of the same décor, including the tin roof, the mahogany bar and the wooden socializing tables. They just all look a little fresher these days.

The kitchen and back room were additions that Brennan added – they’re both located in an adjoining building. A portrait of Dylan Thomas painted by a patron now hangs in the extra room near Dylan’s table and outdoor seating is now available. White horse heads were even painted onto the windows to add a recognizable touch and in case the neon White Horse Tavern sign isn’t lit up; during day time hours, blackouts – y’know, the uze.
The same regulars who love the bar still come to drink. But tourists curious about Dylan Thomas and the rumor that he still haunts the extra room also make up a big part of the clientele these days.

Feel free to check out all the rage about this haunt yourself – see what we did there?


Confetti

PICCOLO ANGOLO - Forget Pizza Hut. When you sit down at Piccolo Angolo, you truly feel like a member of the Migliorini family -- probably because the hefty portions remind us that Mama wants her children to grow up big and strong. The Italian osteria might have opened its doors in 1992, but ambiance is deliberate and authentico. 621 Hudson St. (Jane St.) West Village (212) 229-9177

COOPER CLASSICS - Vin Diesel would fit right in at Cooper Classics Collection - an event space that heralds their compilation of classic cars as "rolling sculptures." From James Bond-esque Aston Martin's to Ferrari's worthy of a Ferris Bueller test drive, the pricy sales floor will certainly rev your engine. 137 Perry St. (Washington St.) West Village (212) 929-3909