WHOA! WHOA! WO Hop.

Jerry: "You walk over to that table, you pick up an eggroll, you don't say anything. You eat it, say thank you very much, wipe your mouth, walk away, I give you fifty bucks."
Elaine: "What are they gonna do?"
Jerry: "They won't do anything. In fact, you'll be giving them a story to tell for the rest of their lives."
- Seinfeld, "The Chinese Restaurant"

"To the ruler, the people are heaven; to the people, food is heaven."
Ancient Chinese proverb

At 17 Mott Street, Wo Hop-a legendary Chinese restaurant-has carried on that proverb since 1938. In the heart of Chinatown, it has endured by offering classic, comforting cuisine at practically all hours of the day and night. And it has been witness to the transformation of a neighborhood that got its start way back in the 18th century.

Go For The Gold!

The first Chinese immigrants started arriving in the U.S. in the mid-18th century. Many were lured west by California's promised "Gold Mountain," but some stayed in Manhattan, putting down the initial roots of a budding community. And after the heyday of the Gold Rush had passed (mid-1850s), many Chinese returned to join their compatriots back east. By 1880, between 300-1,000 Chinese were living in and around Mott Street, in today's Lower Manhattan.

Mott Street runs north-south and serves as the "Main Street" of Chinatown. It was named in the 18th century for a prominent local family that owned a tavern and butcher shop... talk about self-sustaining! The first Chinese establishment popped up on Mott Street in 1872, when a Cantonese gentleman named Ah Ken set up a grocery, and later, a cigar shop called Wo Kee.

Soon, and as the area's Chinese population grew, other shops catering to the community sprung up including general stores and barber shops. In the 1890s, Quong Yuen Shing opened at 32 Mott (and stayed in business until 2003; today a gift shop occupies the space). Quong Yuen Shing offered groceries, herbs, silks, satins, and various supplies-as well as other amenities. Sleeping rooms were available to rent, and a makeshift "bank" (a collection of safes) was set up in the storeroom... new definition for "self sustaining," indeed! Community associations also started to form, to help fellow Chinese find jobs and housing-and a new life in America.



Government policies in the late 1800s to mid-1900s limited Chinese immigration to the United States, but non-Chinese citizens slowly started to be curious about what was happening in the burgeoning Chinatown. A visit in 1896 by Chinese viceroy (a regal official) Li Hung Chang drew new attention to Chinatown and folks started wandering through, checking out local shops and eateries.

A Growth Spurt

In the latter part of the 20th century and onward – and as government policies lightened up - Chinatown grew by leaps and bounds. Today it is the largest such district/neighborhood in the U.S.

The boundaries of the original Mott-centric neighborhood gradually expanded outward and now comprise two square miles. Today's Chinatown population is approximately 125,000, and the district is-not surprisingly-known for its good and affordable eats.

Whoa-Hop!

In the mid-1930s, five young men who had emigrated from the same Chinese village met through their employment at a Chinatown restaurant. Soon enough, they got the idea to open a place of their own.

The young men did not have a great deal of money, but they had a great deal of heart-and, fortunately, a lot of friends. They spoke to relatives and other trusted acquaintances, pitching the idea of investment in the restaurant venture (a "friends and family fundraising round,"... although it's unknown as to whether or not they approached Mark Cuban's or Barbara Corcoran's grandparents). They must have been good salesmen, because thirty-eight people joined in and became shareholders of the business. Contributions varied from $200 (or, $3,400 today) to $2,000 ($34,000 today).

Equipped with enough money to get things going, the team of five sought out a good location for their establishment. 17 Mott (built in 1900) would put them right in the heart of all the action, but the ground floor cost more than they wanted to pay-so they rented the basement level.

Now to name the place. Plenty of ideas got batted around, but they settled on Wo Hop, which means-in Chinese-"peacefully together." The guiding vision behind the five-way partnership was one of a long-term business, managed peacefully.

What's On The Menu?

When Wo Hop opened in 1938, it offered a limited selection of dishes, including congee (a porridge made from rice), Chinese grass jelly (a gelatinous dessert made with a plant from the mint family), jellied bean curd (a tofu pudding, of sorts), fruits, and herb tea. An entrée would have cost approximately $1.95 (or, about $32 by today's standards)... fancy oatmeal for sure!



Wo Hop carried along as a by-Chinese-for-Chinese kind of place for approximately the next two decades. But in 1954, a Mr. Leung showed up on the scene. Originally hailing from the same village as the five partners, he had served as a head cook in the U.S. Army during WWII. Looking for a new gig after the war, he landed at Wo Hop and joined the partnership team. He also helped to significantly expand the menu-and he knew a thing or two about what kind of food the wider array of Americans liked to eat, which was a bonus for sure.

Chef Leung added items like chow fun (a wide noodle stir-fry), Lo mein (dishes made with wheat noodles), chop suey (a meat-and-egg-based preparation), egg foo young (a Chinese-style omelet), and egg rolls. With the expanded offerings, more and more non-Chinese would pop into the downtown eatery for a meal.

The 1960s saw a new wave of Cantonese immigrants to New York-and as a result, Standard Cantonese came to be the dominant language in Chinatown; which increased Wo Hop's business even more.

Dumplings For All!

Wo Hop's next big break came in the 1970s after President Nixon's visit to China. Nixon himself called the mission "the week that changed the world," and it drew the attention of people on both sides of the Pacific. It also called attention to Chinese culture in a way that the U.S. had not seen before. And, hence, people wanted to sample the food of this country they were beginning to appreciate in a new way. What better way to get a taste for a culture than through its food?



About this same time, Chef Leung's son, John, joined Wo Hop after finishing college, carrying on in his father's footsteps. He added dishes that have come to be staples, including BBQ ribs, sweet and sour chicken, sesame chicken, and dumplings-all quite pleasing to the "American" palette. In 1971, the customer base was so heavily made up of people who didn't live in Chinatown that the menu began to be printed solely in English. Knives and forks also became available... blasphemy!

If you stop by the restaurant today, you'll be looking at a menu that's much the same as it's been since the ‘80s. The most consistently popular dishes include BBQ ribs, dumplings, sweet and sour chicken, egg foo young, fried chicken wings, chow fun and Lo Mein.

Never Say "Whoa"

Wo Hop's popularity has nearly outgrown its humble basement dwelling. There are only ten tables in the small space, but somehow it works. And with the shop's 21-7 schedule (they only close between 7am and 10am every day), there is time-o-plenty to stop by.

The restaurant attributes its enduring success (and its position as one of the oldest restaurants in Chinatown) to the positive memories and comforting cuisine which it has continued to perfect since opening. Customers keep coming back, even after they've moved away from New York. The occasional celebrity has also been known to make an appearance-over the years, the likes of Tony Cox and James Gandolfini have made a point to patronize the place. Check the walls for photos and other memorabilia.

If the aforementioned delights aren't enough to whet your whistle, the menu is long and includes Lobster Cantonese, Crispy Scallop, Szechuan Crabs, Szechuan Orange Flavored Beef, Eggplant Black Bean Sauce, Salt And Pepper Jumbo Shrimp, Roast Pork With Almonds, Honey Crispy Beef, Moo Goo Gai Pan, and a vegetarian dish called Buddha's Delight.

Last but not least, its BYOB! So bring your own booze and your appetite, Wo-Hop-on-over!

Confetti

TEN REN TEA - If you're in the mood to appreciate the art of Chinese tea, stop by the Ten Ren Tea Company's Chinatown outpost. Whether you're in the mood for a simple cup of green tea or a flavored bubble tea, they've got you covered. (And they also have exotic teas such as pu-erh and pouchong!) 79 Mott St., New York, NY (212) 732-7178

ICE CREAM FACTORY - For more than 30 years, The Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory has been pleasing the palettes of young and old alike! Regular flavors include: lychee, red bean, ginger, and black sesame. Stop by for a scoop, or order a delectable cake and plan a party! 65 Bayard St., New York, NY (212) 608-4170